Those meets have had trailer parking on blacktop and all sorts of grass (and Mud) surfaces. In the 15 years I have had my current trailer I have attended DOZENS of AACA Meets. Safe trailering doesn't happen by accident I'll probably think of more later, but that is a fair start. At least a 2500 Series tow vehicle as a minimum area to easily attach and maintain at least two (2) spare tires, maybe a 3rd spare for safekeeping - so you don't lose the balance of the day the first time you need to use oneĢ0. storage for tools, towing equipment, etc.ġ9. Fold-out stair at entrance door - we're not getting youngerġ8. Equalizer hitch - all the difference in the worldġ7. Lighting at lower portion of sidewalls (same reason as above)ġ6. Lighting in floor, front, center, and rear - makes tie-down easy - especially at night, or when you have to work under the carġ5. Additional lighting on ceiling - preferably at sides, not just over roof of carġ4. We had our built with a raised floor to allow for a shorter internal wheel box - so can open '50s/'60s car door inside of trailer without hitting wheel boxġ3. Load range "E" or better tires - recently upgraded to "G" at Ed's suggestion - there is no substitute for safetyġ2. a pair of 6K axles on 16" wheels, but have trailer "Rated" as 9,990 lb - better brakes, better suspension, etcġ1. At least a foot additional height (as Dave mentioned, above)ġ0. multiple tie-downs to adapt to multiple cars (my 24 ft V-nose trailer has 8 pairs, 4 front and 4 rear)ĩ. Diamond deck plate floor - less susceptible to wood rot in a humid area like yours and mineĦ. Driver-side escape door extra long and full height, possibly opening canopy-style to provide shade and rain coverage.ģ. Thanks in advance for your help and suggestions!Ī few extra considerations if you really want to get it right the first time:Ģ. I'm considering a 24-ft trailer because it would provide more flexibility for possible future additions to our garage and probably better resale when I'm too decrepit and have to sell our cars.) (We've been using an older 22-ft Pace enclosed, steel-framed trailer (no interior cabinets) and it's worked fine. This will be our only trailer purchase, so I want to get it right the first time. Before making a decision, I'd appreciate input from other members.įor background, we have a 1970 Chevelle, and I'm thinking of a 22-ft or 24-ft Intech aluminum trailer with side escape door. Lower ramp angle for entrance seems like a good thing, but I've heard others say they don't like beavertails because the trailer is more likely to drag on the entrances to some parking lots, driveways, and fields for trailer parking. I'm getting ready to purchase an enclosed car trailer in the next month or two, and curious as to what fellow members think about having a beavertail (slightly lower floor at the ramp door entrance) on the trailer.
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